A day-by-day account of my Greek vacation! :-)



*Day 1*

July 28, 2003 - Greece... is... FABULOUS! It took us (my mom and I) about 25 hours total to get here, including both flights, the layovers, and the 6-hour boat ride out to the island, but who cares? I would have sat for 25 more if that's what it would have taken. :-) The worst part was the flight from Zürich to Athens. We had the rudest family behind us - a younger couple and their kid. They spent over 1/2 the flight "eating" and would NOT let us keep out seats reclined while they ate. If we even tried to recline, the man would scream maniacally at the top of his lungs, "We are eeeating!!!" and then he'd slam my seat back forward as hard as he could. I physically could not keep my seat back. Not to mention, they kicked us and threw garbage at us the entire flight. It was unbearable, and the flight attendant took their side, probably because they had a kid. Oh well. At least that was the shorter of the flights, plus - we are in Greece now!! And what could be better than that? :-D

By the time we got to Paros (the island we are spending our 1st week on), with the 7-hour time change, it was 5:00 a.m. The "slow boat" took 2.5 hours longer than expected (and boy was it slow!) so my poor brother (Jason) was waiting for us that whole time. But we made it here in 1 piece! We got to Jason's room at 6:00 a.m. this morning, got a much-needed 5 hours of sleep, and then spent today at the beach in Logaras, the town Jason is living in. It is so beautiful here! Paros is about 15 miles long and 5 wide, and everybody travels by motorbikes or tiny foreign cars. The countryside is hilly with vineyards, monasteries, churches, fishing harbors, and some of the most gorgeous beaches of the Cyclades (Greek islands). And all of the hills are covered with homemade stone walls - some run left-to-right and others run right up to the top of the hill. They're everywhere. I have no idea how old they are, or what they are for. Division of land? Irrigation? I have no idea. But it's really cool looking. The small villages here are the traditional cubic, white-painted houses with blue doors & windows. The houses here don't even have screens because there isn't even a cloud in the sky. And oh my god - you should see the night sky!!! It feels like you are sitting right on the top of the planet, looking out. You can see every individual star, every constellation, Mars, the Milky Way... it was amazing. :-)

 
Our 1st day at the beach was terrific, and we got a good start on our Greek tans. Everybody here has a cigarette in 1 hand and a cell phone in the other. The beaches are filled with boobs and smiles, and everybody speaks in Greek - not English. Thank goodness for Jason. You should hear him talk! You'd think he was right from Greece! He can carry on a conversation with anybody here. It's incredible.

We ate both lunch and dinner today at Jason's friend Kostas' restaurant, right on the beach. I discovered a great new Greek dish called Gigantes - they are gigantic beans in a tomato sauce and so yummy! Wonder if I can find them back in the states?

And then tonight, we took a nice, long walk through some nearby towns, Marpissa & Marmara. We bought bread & pastries from a bakery for breakfast tomorrow. Our eating schedule here is so bizarre, but my brother insists upon it - real Greek culture, you know? LOL. We eat a small breakfast when we get up, lunch around 5:00, and then dinner after 10:30 p.m. Everything in Greece shuts down between 12:00 and 5:00 and they take a "siesta" (laying on the beach and napping, pretty much) so that's why they don't eat lunch until 5:00. Things are definitely different here! You can't even flush your toilet paper. LOL.

And you should see the drivers over here! You can pass any time you want, and when you want to pass, you just flash your lights, the car in front of you moves over, and any oncoming cars also pull over, give you the entire middle of the road to pass. And on roads with more than one lane, the dots inbetween the lanes basically turn into motorbike lanes! Not to mention, there are no guard rails anywhere, despite the fatal dropoffs on many of the roads, and everybody drives so fast! It is insane!! :-)

Our bungalow Paros
Bungalow Paros


*Day 2*

July 29, 2003 - We spent the day at the beach again, only this time at the beach club where Jason worked all summer - at Pounda Beach. It was nicer than the beach yesterday, since we got beach chairs, and not to mention the heart-thumping dance music by the pool. There's a giant crane where people bungee jump right into the pool. It's insane - imagine if somebody missed the pool! Plus the kids all run around, completely unattended, jumping off this footbridge into the pool - the same pool people are bungee jumping into. Nothing here is even the slightest bit regulated. LOL.

After our day of beach bumming, we went shopping and ate dinner (spinach raviolis with creamy tomato sauce & feta) in Parikia - the port town of the island. The restaurant we ate in had a "ceiling" made up of 2 giant trees and their branches! That was very neat. The shopping here is fun - tons of jewelry and gift shops - all a bit too touristy though. I can't wait to shop in Athens at the end of our trip! :-) We also got to use the Internet cafe in Parikia. Got to send home some x's and o's to Jay...

Pounda Beach Club Me + Mom at Pounda Me + Jason in the Aegaen Sea
Pounda Me + Mom Me + Jason


*Day 3*

July 30, 2003 - Today was incredible! We took a day-trip to one of the other islands - Santorini. It was absolutely awesome. This is the island that the legend of the mythical "Lost City of Atlantis" is based upon. It is believed that after a tremendous volcanic eruption in 1640 BC, the entire center of the circular island sunk into the sea. There were no human remains found on the island, and it is theorized that the people knew the volcano was going to erupt and they tried to escape by boats, only to be wiped out by giant tsunamis (tidal waves) from the eruption. The island today is crescent-shaped, and you can see the giant, black volcanic crater right out in the water. Can you believe I got to see this island?! Seeing it - both from the boat on the way in, and from the island itself - was positively breathtaking, with the deep, blue sea and the volcanic cliffs topped with gleaming white villages & churches.

We rented a car for the day, and we visited 2 archaeological sites - Ancient Akrotiri (1600 BC) and Ancient Thira (400 BC). Akrotiri was a small site, and completely underneath a tent, but still very cool. And Thira was awesome! We had to take our car up this steep, winding mountain road to get there, and once at the top, we were probably about 1000 feet about sea level. My poor mother was petrified! Not only is she afraid of heights, but this was barely a road, with hairpin turns the whole way up and no guard rails, of course. :-) The motorbikes on the road with us were barely moving, and the hikers looked like they would keel over and die at any minute. Thank goodness we had a car! Thira was well worth the climb though. Very interesting ruins, and not to mention an absolutely gorgeous view of the island and the sea below.

After surviving the drive down from Thira, we ate lunch (cheese crepe) at a cafe on the black beach, and then we did some shopping in a town called Ia. Very cute little town. And then after Ia, we went to the most SPECTACULAR beach I have ever seen in my entire life - the red beach. This beach was incredible - secluded and tucked below these gorgeous and enormous soaring red volcanic cliffs. The black & red sand wasn't soft like the beaches on Paros - this was more like pebbles - but it was so gorgeous, you couldn't even care!

We even got to see a Santorini sunset from our boat on the way home! Probably one of the most beautiful sunsets I've ever seen in my life.

The day was absolutely perfect, except for the end in Paros, when it took us 2 hours to catch a cab home. The taxi service in Paros is horrible!! Jason referred to them as "more of a formal hitch-hiking service than a taxi service." The first time we hailed one, the guy told us he couldn't pick us up from the street, and that we had to wait in this designated taxi line. Well, we sat there for 2 hours! Only 1 taxi even came up there, and when we went to get in (we were first in line) this slutty girl in club clothes appears out of nowhere and jumps in before we can. He takes her instead of us. And then we find out that the taxis ARE picking people up right off the street (like we had been trying to do originally) and not even coming up to the taxi line. So we go back down to the street again, and get the same BS - go wait in the taxi line! And you could see the cabs all right on that street - picking people up! Of course, they were picking up all the hot girls, heading into Naossa to go clubbing. Who wants to pick up us, right? It was ridiculous! And there was no other way home. I thought we'd have to sit there until the 4:30 a.m. bus came around. Sheesh.

Mom and I on Santorini Red beach on Santorini Jason + I with wind-bent tree
Mom + I
on Santorini
Red Beach
on Santorini
Jason + I with wind-bent tree


*Day 4*

July 31, 2003 - I got into an accident! :-( I ran a motorbike into a tree! :-( We decided to rent motorbikes for the day, to drive around Paros. We wanted to see the ancient marble quarries, The Butterfly Valley, and some other things. My brother and mom were going to ride on 1 bike and I was going to ride on another. But just after I left the rental place, the first time I tried to make a turn, I accelerated right into a tree! I guess I need some practice before I try to drive one of those on the road. And of course, they don't exactly teach you before they give you the keys. I figured it would be easy, since everyone in Greece is driving them. But when I tried to turn, it just wouldn't. And of course my brother was already a half-a-mile down the road ahead of me when I crashed. It was horrible. I was sure I had broken the bike, and I could hardly breathe, sitting there on the side of the road clutching my chest and shaking. A car stopped and asked me if I was OK (I am assuming) but I couldn't understand a word they said. I just choked out, "My brother. He will come back for me." 

Our day was delayed a few hours, while I laid on my mom's bed and we determined how badly I was hurt. I could bend my arms and legs, but my right knee got banged up pretty bad. I can walk, but it hurts when I put any pressure on it. I also think bruised my rib - that's where I got the wind knocked out of me when I hit, and why I thought I couldn't breathe at first. It hurts to sit up from a laying-down position, but once I'm up, it's not so bad. And if those 2 things weren't bad enough, I also have a giant blue bruise on my right arm, an enormous swelled-up bump on my inner left thigh, a big red blood blister on my left thigh near my knee, and various other cuts and bruises on my hands and shins. :p Well anyways, all I know is that I am lucky!!! I am so lucky that I didn't break any bones or hit my head!!! I wasn't wearing a helmet, you know. And if I had hit my head, who knows how long it would have taken for some slow medical service to helicopter me to Athens. And thank goodness it was just a tree, and not off a cliff. These roads are all cliffs here, with no guard rails. Yes, I definitely could have died today.  *shudder*

Well, after a few hours of calming down and practicing my new gimp form of walking, we set off on the motorbikes (Apparently, my bike was still drivable) to explore the island - my brother and I on 1 bike and my mom on the other. It hurt to sit on the bike, with the swelling on my inner thigh, but there was no way I was going to let my injuries ruin even one day of this vacation! All things considering, the day went well. And actually, it was nice riding on the bike, because I got to soak in all the scenery without having to pay attention to a damn thing. :-)

First, we rode across the island to The Butterfly Valley, which is a secluded little wooded area where the stone walls & trees are covered with this 1 type of butterfly. It was fun to see, and thankfully not very big so I was able to hobble around without much of a problem. After that, we hit Farangas beach for a few hours, and then got AMAZING gyros (pronounced "year-row" not "ji-row") from this place in Marpissa called Tassos. Since they put french fries in their gyros here, and since I'm vegetarian, mine was basically just a french fry gyro! Mmmmmmm! It was just fries, lettuce, tomatoes, and tzetziki on the fried pita bread. Mmmmmmm! The pita was so good! (Unlike every Greek restaurants in New Jersey back home. they don't serve lots of pita here, so this was a treat for us!)

And then after lunch, we took the bikes to the marble quarries (mines). Jason showed us the ancient entrance, but we ended up going down the newer entrance, which was escavated just a few hundred years ago. It wasn't quite as steep or rocky as the ancient entrance, but still difficult enough that with my busted-up knee, it took me FOREVER to get down there. :p But the caves down there were incredible! This was nothing like the U.S., where a cave like this would be wired up w/bright lights, with ropes and railings blocking off certain passageways, and a marble quarry gift shop on the way out. :p Over here, it's the real thing. It's enter-at-your-own risk or don't enter at all. You make your way down the dangerous entrance, and if you fall, it's your own damn problem. And once you're inside these caves, it is pitch black. You can't see anything at all without a flashlight. Jason had one (with a dying battery, of course) but I didn't, which made it even harder for me to limp around down there. Plus it was quite scary because Jason would often go ahead alone and see if it was worth me limping with my bad knee all the way to the end of a tunnel or not, leaving me in absolute darkness. I felt like I was in the X-Files or something! But the marble walls down there were absolutely gorgeous, and I got my picture taken on an ancient stairwell, which was really cool to see.

We drove around on the bikes for awhile more, after that, watched the sun setting over the Aegean, went home & washed up, and then took the bus in Naossa to shop for the evening and have dinner. (Naossa and Parikia are the 2 big town on Paros. Parikia is the biggest - it's the port town - and Naossa is where the night life is.) It would be fun to go to a club with Jason one of these nights, but I doubt it will happen. We've been eating dinner after 10:30 p.m. every night and then coming back to the room and crashing. Plus, Jason would be talking to everybody in Greek and I wouldn't be able to understand anybody. And not to mention, I'm a gimp now and can't dance anyways. :p I must admit, it's getting to be a little depressing not being here with friends or with Jay. There are couples everywhere we go! And if it's not couples, the people my age are all hanging out with their friends. Don't get me wrong - I am having a blast with mom and Jason! :-) I just get envious of the couples and the groups of friends at times. (Plus, I can't go topless on the beach w/my mom and Jason now, can I? LOL!)

*Day 5*

August 1, 2003 - We spent the day at Pounda Beach again (the club where Jason worked all summer) and had another gyro for lunch. Wait til you guys see my tan!! :-) My knee is doing much better today. I'm not limping nearly as much. Just once in awhile, I step too hard on my right leg and wince! But it seems to be healing well. The bruise on my arm is still really ugly though, and the swelling on my inner thigh has now exploded into this enormous, hideous, dark purple bruise. I have never had a bruise this big or this dark purple on my body before. Ugh! :p But at least nobody can really see that one. Well, at any rate, I am just still feeling so fortunate that I didn't break any bones or hit my head. It could have been so much worse! We had to pay €200 (approx. $330) today for the damages to the bike, but I still don't even care. My mom is relieved the damages were less than $1000 and I am just relieved to be alive!!


*Day 6*

August 2, 2003 - Today was our last day on Paros. :-( The days were slow and lazy, but I still can't believe we're leaving already. We spent the day at Pounda (beach club) again. Boy, was it hot today! We were jumping into the sea every 15 minutes just to stay cool. I can't believe how tan I am. Sure, I don't look African like my brother! LOL! :-) But I have never been this tan in my entire life. Wow! A real Greek island tan! :-) We ate at Kostas' restaurant again for our last meal here. I had Gemista, which was a green pepper and a tomato, stuffed with rice & spices, and served with potatoes. It was OK. Not as good as the gigantas or gyros... but still good. Plus I ate a ton of bread and tzetziki, much like every meal here. Haha!


*Day 7*

August 3, 2003 - Today we traveled to the mainland. I finished my book (Shelters of Stone by Jean M. Auel) which was awesome, and started a new one (Belinda by Anne Rice writing as Anne Rampling) which so far, I am loving! We got into Peiraias (the port town by Athens) about 4:00 and then took a taxi into Athens to rent a car. We got this tiny little car - a Daihatsu Cuore. Imagine 3 people, 3 giant stuffed suitcases, and 3 carry-on bags stuffed into this tiny foreign car with no trunk! LOL. :-) There are so many adorable Smart Cars driving around here! SO CUTE! I wish we could rent one, but they hold only 2 people and VERY little luggage. So cute, though. :-) (And speaking of cars, I am definitely going to test drive a Mini-Cooper once I'm home. If I like it, I'm going to get a yellow one! Yay! My Jetta is awesome, but I think I'm ready for something new.) Anyways! - Back to Greece! After we rented our little Daihatsu and played Tetris with the luggage to fit it all in, we set off for Nafplio. On the way, we had Greek fast food at Goody's. Quite Americanized. I had a salad bar, soda, and fries. It was a really fun drive, and the Peloponnesos is absolutely breathtaking! You cannot take your eyes off the scenery for even 1 minute. They are beautiful - the rolling, rocky, endless mountains. And when we got closer to Nafplio, we saw lots of trees - olive, citrus, cypress, and pine. And it was true Greek country culture there - villagers out along the roadsides, some herding sheep and others selling homegrown melons, homemade olive oil, and honey.

We got into Nafplio about 7:30 p.m. and checked into our room. It is the cutest little town. Very pretty, very quaint - with tiny streets of gift shops, gardens, cafes, and a strip of restaurants along the water. We are staying in a tiny bed-and-breakfast-type of place called Pension Atheaton. It is run by a sweet couple, and there's only 4 other rooms besides our own. It's a small room, much like our room in Logaras, only this time with 1 double bed and 1 pull-out single. In Logaras, we had 3 singles - mine being more like a cot filled with potatoes. It is nice now, to be sharing a good double bed with my mom. Everybody in the Pension shares a bathroom, and we have a shared fridge stocked with free fresh fruits, cakes, sodas, juices, and chocolate. Plus, there's a water cooler with instant coffee and teabags - all included. Finally, some coffee for the morning! It's a wonderful place to be staying.


*Day 8*

August 4, 2003 - Today we traveled over 3000 years into the past and spent the day hiking through ancient Greek ruins. The 1st site we saw was the Palace of Agamemnon, from 1280 BC Mycenae. The most impressive things there were the Lions Gate at the entrance to the palace, the scenery, and the tombs. The tombs were absolutely incredible! They were "beehive" style tombs, and in near-perfect condition. They! Were! Awesome! And then from there, were then traveled to 250 BC to Ancient Nemea, where we say a Temple to Zeus, a stadium where ancient games were held, and the "bath" (where the men cleaned themselves after tournaments). After that, we traveled to Ancient Korinthos (Corinth) and saw the Temple to Apollo there, as well as Akrokorinthos (the Acropolis of Corinth - every city in Ancient Rome had an acropolis at it's highest point - a safe place for the people of that city if under attack). We ate lunch in Ancient Corinth - Mom and I split an enormous cheese & potato omelette (made, of course, with olive oil) - and then we traveled to the Acropolis of Ancient Tiryns (1280 BC again) and saw another amazing "beehive" tomb.

All of the ruins we saw were really interesting. I absolutely loved hiking around, studying the remnants of these lost civilizations, trying to imagine what everything once looked like, and what the people were like. And I had to keep thinking to myself - What would these people think if they could see what we've done - that we've dug up and disrupted their sacred tombs and treasures and placed everything into our museums? Perhaps they would be amazed, that their ruins and treasures would have even survived 3000+ years! What incredible design they had, and what craftsmanship! But consider the tombs - we have went and taken apart everything that they worked so hard to accomplish. Those tombs were never to be opened. My mom pointed out that the tombs served their purposes for the beliefs of those people for their lifetimes. But still... can you imagine how they'd feel, seeing their burial treasures, and all of their treasures, for that sake, in our museums? It's just so strange of a thing for me to think about.

Anyways... after Ancient Tiryns, it was time to hit the beach. We were sweaty and hot, and needed to relax. We went to the beach in Tolo. The water was warm, but still quite refreshing. We swam for no more than 1 hour, and then we visited 1 more site for the day - the Ancient Theater of Epidauros - and it was awesome! 2400 years old, and still in near-perfect condition. The seats are stone, and the backs of most of them have broken away, but still - it was incredible! The acoustics are perfects. You can hear someone speaking in a normal tone of voice with no mic from the back row. How did they do it??? Last summer, my brother was fortunate enough to see a live performance there. Shakespeare, I think. Yes - they still use it! 2400 years old, and nothing has even been reconstructed. Can you imagine? :-)

So yes, anyways, it was a great day. We had delicious crepes for dinner, back in Nafplio, and boy are we going to sleep good tonight! What an experience, to be exploring those ruins. And Jason is THE BEST tour guide we ever could have asked for. He is awesome! He knows everything - every name, every date... screw the brochures! If you ever go to Greece, take my brother with you! :-)

Ancient Nemea
Theater at Ancient Epidauros
The Acropolis of Corinth
Ancient
Nemea
Ancient Epidauros
Acropolis
of Corinth


*Day 9*

August 5, 2003 - Another injury! :( Only this time, it was Jason and not me. But let me start back at the beginning of the day... This was our 2nd day of exploring the ruins of Ancient Greece. We began by visiting the remains of an actual Greek "pyramid" - The "Pyramid" (Tower) at Helliniko. It is believed to have been a guard house from the late 4th century BC. I was completely appalled to find a used condom inside the ruins! :( Can you imagine?! Who could be so distasteful?! God, I hate people! Anyways... then we drove up to the Temple of Epicurian Apollo. Oh my god, what a drive! What scenery! The Peloponnesos is absolutely breathtaking. They are enormous - gorgeous, rocky, and green - with tiny little red-roofed villages tucked quietly away into the mountainsides. My poor mother was terrified of the drive up the mountains. She's afraid of heights, and this was more than just heights, and this was a lot more than just driving up to Ancient Thira on Santorini. We're taking windy, mountain roads with no guardrails and a fatal drop-off on 1 side the entire way. But that's Greece for you! LOL. I felt so bad though, that my mom could not look out and soak up the scenery like I was doing the entire time. It was just so beautiful. I couldn't take my eyes off those mountains, those tucked-away villages, those indescribable scenes. The Epicurian Temple to Apollo was really awesome - in near-perfect condition because it was SO high up and hard to get to - it was never under attack like the other temples had been - but it was too bad they had it all underneath a giant archaeological tent. You couldn't see it with it's real natural beauty around it. :( But nonetheless, it was very impressive.

After that, we drove to Ancient Phigaleia (Figalia) to see the ancient walls, temples, and tombs there, plus there were waterfalls and a gorge - but this is where Accident #2 happened. :( We started off hiking around this gorgeous path in the mountains - more beautiful than any New Jersey state park back home, that's for sure! And we saw the ancient walls of Phigaleia - nothing special, but like I said, it was a great walk. After we saw the ancient Temple of Athena, we then decided to take our poor little Daihatsu and it's poor little 1-liter engine down this "road" to one of the waterfalls. The road - if you could even call it that - was more like a sharp, rocky mountain path that just so happened to be wide enough for our tiny foreign car. We couldn't even take the car out of 1st gear, and after we got a good deal of the way there, we decided to pull the car off the road and do the rest by foot. Well, just as we were about to begin walking, as a last minute thought (and a seemingly smart one, or so we thought at the time) Jason grabbed a giant stone to put behind the back wheel of the car (so it wouldn't roll off the cliff if the emergency break gave out) but this stupid stone BROKE as my brother was setting it down, and sliced right into his middle finger. There was blood running down his hand, down his arm, and he fell right to the ground from lightheadedness. He was in so much pain, and it was all such a ridiculous way for him to have gotten hurt! There he was, trying to protect the car, and look what happened. We sat there for awhile, in the middle of nowhere, miles from civilization, while he got his energy back (from the loss of blood) and my mom concocted a bandage made of napkins and dental floss. We had nothing with us - no Band-Aids, no tape, no gauze - not even Aspirin. My brother was like me though, after my motorbike accident - he was tough, and he was not going to let his accident ruin our day. He wouldn't even let my mom drive the car back - he was so adamant. He drove it back down that awful road 1-handed (no need to clutch when you are staying in 1st gear) and he insisted that we drive to the other waterfall and not to a hospital. The other waterfall was supposedly accessible by means of a better road. So we drove along our friendly mountain cliff road, my poor mom, terrified of the heights and worrying about my brother's finger, the entire time, begging us to head back to Nafplio. But we continued onward, and ended up in one of the tiny red-roofed towns tucked away in the mountainside. We had seem them from across the mountains, but now we were actually in one, and the road became absolutely undrivable, so we had to stop. My brother and I wanted to finish the trek to the waterfall on food, but my mom simply would NOT go with us, no matter how much we yelled, begged, and mocked her. She had made up her mind to sit in the car for an hour while we went on ahead. :p But before we left, a family came out of their house and asked us to move our car a little bit. Jason started talking to them - yes, he's even good enough at the language to speak to these backwoods mountain Greeks! Before we knew it, the women were cleaning his finger and rebandaging it with gauze and tape. And then, for the first time in his life, my brother fainted! It was only for a few seconds, but still quite scary. After all, my mom and I could not communicate with these people. But you should have seen the look on Jason's face when he woke up! You have to imagine - he's standing 1 minute getting his finger taped, and the next minute he's laying on the ground, head on my mom's lap, with this Greek mountain man holding his legs up in the air. LOL! It was priceless. The family was wonderful, though. What great luck that we ran into them and they were able to bandage his finger. And they even gave us some juice - how nice. You should have SEEN this place, though! This little house up in the Peloponnesos... it wasn't even a town really, just some houses. In this family, there were 2 older women, 1 old man, a younger couple (30's) and their 2 kids, although I didn't see the little girl. The "roof" over the porch was all grape vines, with big bunches of grapes just hanging down to pick. And a truck came by to drop off beer, bread, and cigarettes. These people were the real backwoods Greek thing - especially the 3 old ones! I mean - the women wearing 3 different flowered-prints apiece, the missing teeth, the worn-out sandals, the look of awe on the little boys face. They'd probably tell this story for years to come - the American boy with the injured finger. It was so amazing to experience. These people really lived up there, in those mountains.

After my brother was mended, my mom stuck to her word and sat in the car for an hour while Jason and I hiked down to the waterfall. It was a very steep hike down, but well worth it, seeing that beautiful waterfall right there in the middle of the forest. So pretty, and so hidden. Amazing that anybody even found it. Guess they saw it from the cliff road above. The hike back up was excruciating! So steep and long. I was panting for breath. I had to stop about 5 times. Thank goodness for all the natural springs in the Peloponnesos. :-) After our climb, we were thirsty and starving, so we drove to the nearest town (Platania) and found a taverna overlooking the mountains. What a view! Imagine waking up every morning and seeing that view! Wow! And then after lunch, we headed home. Holy shit! You should have SEEN the "road" we took back out of the mountains. It was hardly a road - it was less of a road than anything else we had driven on to date. It went ALL the way down the mountain and then back up again to get out - just a narrow dirt road with hairpin turns and drop-off cliffs the entire way. You could never even have driven it if it had rained. You'd slide right off the edge to your death. You'd never see anything like that in America!

On the way home, we stopped at a hospital and Jason had 6 stitches put in his finger. I waited in the car. Can you believe you can get in and out of a Greek emergency room in less than 10 minutes and you don't even need to fill out any paperwork? They didn't even ask him his name. They gave him a prescription for an antibiotic and he filled in his own name! They didn't ask him if he was allergic to anything. And they didn't even charge him anything. LOL! My mom said the doctor and Jason were babbling away in Greek, and then the doctor turned to her and said, "I make stitches." Bahahahahaha! Priceless! :-D

We finished our day back in Nafplio. Ate dinner along the water and I had a yummy eggplant dish. The host who greeted us was actually a vegetarian himself - very rare for Greece! - so I knew I'd have some luck there. :-)


*Day 10*

August 6, 2003 - This morning, we bid farewell to sweet little Nafplio - my mom and I checked out the little museum before we left while Jason got a haircut - and then we headed into Athens for the very last part of our trip. You should see our hotel room! We're staying at the Marriott in Athens - an Americanized hotel - and it has a pool on the roof overlooking the Parthanon!!!!! You can see the Parthanon from our hotel room window, too! (And no screens in the windows, of course.) It is awesome! What a great place to spend our last 2 nights in Greece.

At night, we went shopping in Athens, but I was dismayed that for some bizarre reason, all the shops in Athens are closed on Wednesday nights! What the hell. :p But all the touristy shops were still open, so we still had fun. We spent 30 minutes at one of the Internet cafes, and then ate dinner at a taverna on the street. During dinner, Jason bought 8 or 9 Greek CDs from this Nigerian guy - these black guys are all walking around the streets of Athens, selling burned CDs. They are known for it. It's really strange! The restaurant owners hate them, but they can't really do anything about it. The street is public property, you know? And there's also all the little gypsy beggar children walking around. They were in Nafplio too. Some no more than 6 years old - dirty little children begging for money or selling weird things like lighters or pens. It's kind of sad at first, to see them, but that's just how the gypsies live. They live a life of begging. That's just how they are. Not much to be sad about. What's REALLY sad in Greece is all the stray cats and dogs. TONS of them, everywhere, laying around, starving and dying. More cats on the islands and more dogs on the streets of Athens. When the hell is that country going to learn how to spay and neuter their animals? It's so horrible. :(

The
Parthanon
In front of
Athens


*Day 11*

August 7, 2003 - We got up around 7:30 and went to see the Parthanon & the Acropolis of Athens. There were SOOO many people there - busloads of tourists, even that early in the morning. Nothing like the other ruins we visited, where we were often alone. But this is the big one, you know? Everybody goes to see the Parthanon. And it was also the most expensive site to get into. It was very impressive though, as you can imagine. We saw the Temples of Athena & Poseidon, the Temple to Hephasestos, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, the Theaters of Dionysis, and the Roman Odion (where "Yanni - Live at the Acropolis" was recorded - yuck!! LOL!!) We did a little more shopping, ate lunch at another Goody's, and then Jason left to catch his plane home (with a 1-night layover in Rome! Sweet!). After Jason left, mom and I spent some time on our roof pool at the hotel, and I finished reading Belinda. I loved that book! And then we did more shopping in Athens. This time, the stores were all open! :-D I bought 6 new shirts - 1 tank top, 1 long-sleeved, and 4 button-downs. Mom and I were both really sick of Greek food, so we took a cab back to the Marriott and ate dinner there. I had a veggie sandwich, which was pretty crappy, but Mom's pizza was huge so I ate 2 pieces of that, too. We packed, I called Jay, and then we went to bed at 11:00. We have to get up at 4:00 a.m. tomorrow catch our plane. Already! :(


*Day 12*

August 8, 2003 - Mom and I got up at 4:00 a.m. and took a cab to the airport. The cab drivers in Athens suck, too. When mom and I were hailing one to get back to the hotel yesterday, the 1st guy we asked said, "€15." Can you believe that?! The 2nd guy we hailed actually put his ticker on and it came to less than €2! And when we took a cab this morning to the bus stop, the driver said, "I'll take you all the way to the airport for €20 - same price as the bus." We told him we already had bus tickets. And guess what? Our bus tickets were less than €4 apiece! God, what assholes they are! I got to call Jay again from the airport in Athens. I only called him about 4x this whole trip. And I emailed him a few times from the smoky Internet cafes. I miss him so much!!

We landed in Zürich about 9:00 a.m. (which was 8:00 in Zürich time) and we took a train into the city and shopped for 3 hours. I didn't buy anything, but we did a TON of shopping. Mom bought a shirt. It was so tiring, hiking around the streets with our heavy carry-ons. We should have gotten a locker at the airport. Not sure if there even were any. Zürich was VERY expensive to shop! We saw baby booties in a window for 100 Swiss Francs (equal to the $) and the jewelry was $2500+ in the windows. We spent 9 S.F.'s for just 2 bottles of Coke from a cafe. Sheesh!! But Zürich was a very pretty city. Very clean, nice architecture, good shopping. We used up Mom's last roll of film.

The flight home was much better than the flight there, I think because we traveled during daylight and we weren't pressed for sleep. I felt better than Mom, though. Once we got on that plane in Zürich, it was 4:00 p.m. EST but our bodies, still in Greek time, felt that it was 11:00 p.m. Mom couldn't seem to get out of Greek time, but when we got on the plane, I convinced my body that it WAS 4:00 in the afternoon, and I did great all the way home. I played Hangman and Gobblesnake on my personal plane TV, wrote in this journal, and read (Lucky Wander Boy by D.B. Weiss - so far a very cool book!!) the whole way home. And even after we landed in Buffalo, I didn't go directly to bed when we got home. I called Jay and we talked for awhile, and I did a load of laundry.

It feels great to be home! Greece was fabulous and I had such a good time. I absolutely loved my vacation! But it does feel great to be back in the U.S. again. I'm actually in Buffalo right now, for 4 days, for my grandfather's Memorial Service on Monday, so I won't be back home in NJ until Tuesday night. But it's nice to be in Buffalo for a few days. I can TALK to people who speak English, take baths/showers in a stall and step out into a nice, dry bathroom, sleep with fluffy pillows and blankets (in a room by myself!), eat pizza and Subway and veggie burgers, drive to the mall, and play on the computer again - and soon I'll be home again, squeezing Jay and chasing my kitties around and driving my Jetta - all those things I love about being home. :-)